N.J. Pizza Power Rankings: A new No. 1, and 7 newcomers on the list
19. Porto by Antonio, North Bergen (new to list). Red-bricked pizzeria on a side street in North Bergen, although right across the highway from Edgewater Borough Hall. Antonio is Antonio Dinas, a pizza maker who learned the trade in New York City and Italy. Fried dough pizza (montanara) has been in the big city for five years, but good luck finding it on this side of the river. The one here, topped with oven-roasted tomato sauce, imported mozzarella du bufala, basil and grana Padano, is a whole new taste/texture sensation, managing the neat trick of being fried and light. Cool, cozy interior, with artwork of Ronaldo, Michael Jordan and others. 8921 River Road, North Bergen; (201) 941-7107.